Inside The Walking Dead: The Making of The Season 3 Finale

Posted on April 3, 2013 by Iain Geddes

* Spoilers – Do not watch the below videos if you have not seen the Season 3 finale*

Go behind the scenes of The Walking Dead Season 3 Finale by checking out the videos below. The cast and crew discuss what work and preparation went into the episode, and share their insight into their own characters/thoughts during the episode.

Inside The Walking Dead Season 3 Finale
“In The Walking Dead Season 3 finale, Rick discovers that the only way to survive the apocalypse is to be open to others.”

The Making of The Season 3 Finale – Prison Assault
“Big guns, lots of explosions. The crew walks you through how the Governor’s assault on the prison was filmed in The Walking Dead Season 3 finale.”

The Making of Andrea/Milton’s face off scene
“The crew of The Walking Dead takes you behind the scenes of Andrea and Milton’s face off in The Walking Dead Season 3 finale.”

What did you think of the Season 3 finale? Leave your thoughts and comments below. Stay tuned, there will be much more content coming like this soon!

I am Daryl Dixon’s New Crossbow

Posted on March 21, 2013 by Bill Kasper

When he saw me, he had to have me.
And I don’t blame him. I have made a special effort to be attractive.
I’m no home-wrecker, and I didn’t intend to take anyone else’s place, but we belong together. Let’s face it: My curves are in all the right places, and my split limbs ache to hold Daryl’s bolt any time he wants me.
I am the Stryker Strykezone 380 by Bowtech.

I am Daryl Dixon’s new crossbow.

Michonne found me in Morgan’s weapons cache. I was the only silent, sexy thing in that sniper sausage fest. I’m glad she got me out of there and brought me home to Daryl.

All About Me

So, since I’m sure you’re just dying to know all about me, let me dish some details about myself. First, my measurements:

Draw weight: 160 lbs. (Harder, but not too hard)
Average Bolt speed: 380 feet per second (Faster! FASTER! Yes!)
Length: 34-3/8″. (Good things come in adult-sized packages)
Axle-to-axle length: 19-1/2″ (I’m no skin-and-bones waif)
Weight: 6.9 lbs. (Slender but fit)
Power stroke: 15-1/2″ (yes, that’s as good as it sounds)
Color: Black. (You won’t go back)
Scope: Multi-reticule optical (not a cheap, sloppy red-dot)
Trigger: Creep-free KillSwitch™ trigger, the lightest crossbow trigger on the market before the WA (Walker Apocalypse) with sub-3 lbs. pull weight with less than .015″ of travel before let-off.

I’m fast, easy, and I thrill to the slightest touch. But I am not cheap (an evening with me would set you back about $799, when money meant something). Being pure 100% American made (I’m a Eugene, Oregon gal), I’m not some cheap Asian hussy. I am USA Prime cut.

My soft rubber shoulder pad begs for you to grab me and hold me tight.
My high-quality “Octane” string and cables with precision-engineered cams assure smooth, delicious, intense release every single time you touch me.
My molded stock and aluminum barrel mean you can treat me rough, and I’ll keep coming back for more.

And don’t worry, I always bring my own protection:
My Auto-Flip magnetic safety clicks into the Safe position every time you cock me (tee hee!), drop me (don’t!), or a bolt is removed. My Cease-Fire secondary safety is always ready to stop embarrassing premature release.

So, that’s me in a nutshell. I’m sure you’ve heard other stories about me that are less, shall we say “flattering”. When you’re as hot as I am, and when you’re seen around town and country on Daryl Dixon’s arm, rumors and jealous whispers are bound to arise. Well, let me just get those nasty TMZ-style reports out into the open air and address them.

All My Ex’s Don’t Live in Texas

Some of my ex’s like talking smack about me. I mean, sure, I was a little messed up back then, but I’ve grown up, I’ve changed. I’m better now. But you know how everything on the ‘net is always there and never goes away? Well, there are stories about me back in the old days of 2012 that just don’t mean anything any longer.

Like this from Amazon:

Got delivery of my StrykeZone 380 two weeks ago (Sept. 2012). The accuracy and range was impressive. I was careful to ensure that the arrow was back against the string prior to each shot. However after about 20 shots I noticed that the upper right limb had splintered. Note that these are the black limbs that are supposed to be OK. Per the warranty instructions, I called the nearest Stryker dealer but when he heard that I got the xbow from Amazon he basically told me to get lost. I called Bowtech and they refused to work with me directly. Their only advice was for me to try to find a local dealer who would cooperate. So it is the 2nd day of bow season and I’m stuck with a defective xbow with no current means of resolution. Please be aware that Bowtech is now telling me that their warranty in invalidated if purchased from Amazon.

There was a problem with quality control with my 2012 camo limbs. I admit that. And there is some subtlety to my warranty coverage (we’ll talk about that later). Everyone makes mistakes, right? And there was a transitional problem with the slightly-later manufactured black limbs of the same year. I know that. But I am much better now. I’m a crossbow star who deserves more than a 1 star review, right?

Here, here are some guys who know the new me, the improved me, the purchased-from-an-authorized-dealer (Cabela’s) me who think I’m worth of 5 stars:

Faster and hits harder (December 7, 2012)
I upgraded my Barnett crossbow to this Stryker 380. Its shoots much faster and hits at least two inches deeper into my target. My shoulder really feels the difference carrying it to my stand. Great scope and the slimmer design helps when in my ground blind.

And another:

Amazing Crossbow! (November 30, 2012)
Last summer I was planning on upgrading from my old Horton Hunter crossbow which I had used for last 10+ years. I looked at lots of different crossbows and was thinking of getting a reverse draw, but as soon as I picked this one up and shot it, I knew I liked it better. The trigger is very crisp and light! It is very short from axle to axle and from end to end, since the trigger sits up the rail a little ways instead of right under the firing mechanism like on some other crossbows. I also love that it is light and that the arrow on the shooting rail does not stick out beyond the cocking stirrup, even with a broadhead on. The scope seems to be good quality. It shoots great for me! I have gotten near field point accuracy out to 50 yards with both the fixed blade and the mechanical broadhead that I shoot (haven’t tried any farther yet). I got 2 does and 1 buck with it this year; ranges varied from 20 to 30 yards.

That’s more like it. This man knows how to talk to me. I’ll get down on all fours with that kind of sweet talk…

No, I don’t come standard with a bipod, but you can put one on me if you want to. I like dressing up and role-playing

My Family Tree and Status (It’s Complicated)

Some of the confusion regarding support and warranty issues is due to my somewhat complicated family history.

Stryker is the subsidiary of Bowtech that distributes the Stryker Strykezone product line through their Authorized Dealer channel. You may also see references to Diamond Archery Dealer, another Bowtech subsidiary.

To find your authorized Stryker dealer, you’ll go to Bowtech’s Authorized Dealer page. If there is an Authorized Dealer within 30 miles of where you live, any Stryker bow you buy from that Dealer will come with a non-transferable lifetime warranty (excluding strings, regular wear, and abuse) for you (the original purchaser). You can try “Bowtech in the Boonies” to find a dealer who is further out but still qualifies you for the lifetime warranty (http://www.huntersfriend.com). This is a limited selection and high-priced option, though (http://www.huntersfriend.com/products/archery/crossbows/strykeforce_crossbow.html).

If you have an Authorized Dealer near you, but you chose to buy online from, say, Amazon, your only hope is to find a friendly Dealer as close to you as possible. But it’s totally up to the Dealer how much help you’ll receive, as you have no official Stryker warranty support.

About that “Other” Crossbow

Look, I understand Daryl had a life before me, I know that. But I’m not tied to my own past, and I’m sure not going to dwell on his. I think we have both moved on, and are in different spaces now. We are together now, and that’s all that counts. Just be happy for us, and watch us make a serious dent in the walker population everywhere we show up together.

Staying Un-Dead #2: Bug-Out Pack

Posted on March 10, 2013 by Dave Sunhammer

Yo, Zombie Killers! Before we get into this thingamabob I want to get a little serious. So take a knee and lend me your ear for a moment.

It should be really obvious that in this day and age survival gear is mostly a rich man’s toy, and a poor man’s woe. After tales of hurricane Katrina nobody can really deny that “survival” is biased against the poor. Yes, there is a whole pile of really cheap gear out there that people can buy, but once you get it out and try to use it, well, more often than not it is going to be more harmful to you than helpful. A great example is knives. When you are out in the rain chopping with that $15 BudK special to make some shelter for your kids, and the blade snaps off at the handle you will know exactly what I mean.

The really important thing to remember is that hidden in all that cheap crap are some worthwhile, last forever, decent products that can make a difference. One of the really important goals in my articles is to find that gear and pass on what it is and where to get it. And in doing this, maybe give some people some peace of mind. Economically challenged people DON’T have to just lie down and take it if they don’t want to. Start a “Fight Back” jar and stick $5 or $10 in it a month, all that loose change you were going to use for a pack of cigarettes.

Now, let’s prep for some zombie butt kicking with this week’s:

The Bug-Out Pack

If you read my first article on the Bug-Out Belt you might have heard me talk about water, its importance to you living to see a cure, and how the belt can’t carry any. While I really hate to repeat myself, “You need water, or you are going to die!! Aaaaaggghh!”” While in super extreme survival situations, like your car breaks down in the desert, you can stay alive on just a few swallows of water. But only for about a week or so. Most experts I can find say for “long term, active survival (you are not just going to lay under a tarp as the zombie apocalypse passes by) 2 liters a day of drinking water.

So, our next experiment in “don’t loose or die” revolves around a hydration pack. Yes, I know, these are expensive little bass turds BUT you can get them “new with tags” on eBay for under US-$20. In fact I got mine for $10 + $8 s/h. One trick is to start shopping in late fall or early winter when people have lost interest in running and hiking.

It is important to remember that we are making an absolute base layer here that you never take off unless you know for sure the zombies are headed the other way, or you are in a secure bunker, armed guards, whatever. This is your absolute have-or-die gear. On top of this you will have a go-bag with clothing, and other important but less critical items.

Because you will have a go-bag to supplement this bug-out pack you want to keep it simple as possible. I know, I know, pockets are kewl, and you can add more stuff… NO! No! No,,, That is what the go-bag is for. I chose the Camelbak Thermopack for 2 reasons: There are no pockets to tempt you into overloading yourself, and it is decently insulated so that the water bladder shouldn’t draw much heat from your body. The Thermopack comes in 2 liter and 3 liter versions, and I went with the 2 liter version for a few reasons.

One of which was that I was going to take the water bladder out and put it in my bug-out vest. That was a bad choice though as the bladder is too long and narrow to work in the vest. However, this narrow system is a really good thing as the pack fits very nicely between your shoulders. So, if your go-bag is a backpack you can actually wear it very comfortably on top of the hydration pack.

Do you see what I am doing here? I am splitting things up and making things versatile. If I am running from zombies and need to lose 20 pounds I can drop my go-bag and still have critical supplies on my bug-out pack. If I need to climb a tree to get a better view, I drop my go-bag at the base but I wear my bug-out pack up into the tree… absolutely critical gear is always near. It is light weight and hampers motion as little as possible.

What Is In It?

You may have noticed right off that I don’t have my machete attached to this. No, none of the straps are rigid enough nor in the right place to deal with a heavy tool. Someone in your crew will have to hang one on a belt. In spite of that, the bug-out pack is a better system than the belt. The obvious reason is the water bladder with which survival greatly improves.

One advantage to the bladder is now you are working with a large enough amount that water purification tablets are practical. Crushing them up for one cup at a time is crazy making but dropping one or a half of one into a bladder is simple.

Now as said, I bought mine off eBay so the first thing I did was fill it up and let it hang for a couple days. Doing this will reveal the smallest leak. By the second day the bottom of my pack was a bit damp and I was kind frustrated. The hose connection at the bag was leaking. Before I ran to my laptop and left some blazingly insulting email to the seller I did go search the internet to see if there was a simple solution as I am a fixer-upper type. To my surprise people on forums everywhere talk about their packs leaking here or there and don’t seem to care much. Apparently rich people don’t worry about products that habitually leak. So, the general consensus is that bladders are disposable and if you just stick a one gallon ziplock bag around the bottom of the bladder that should keep you dry enough. I’ve not had time to go to the hardware store but I am betting that there are several solutions for a dollar or two. I will be back with an inexpensive fix to drippy packs.

The two black pouches I have connected I actually found at the Goodwill store, and they are just digital camera cases. One cost me $4 and the other cost me $3. That olive drab pouch cost me $9 at a military surplus (yea, right) store, but is worth the money. It is actually a pistol clip pouch that holds two clips, but I stuck in a folding knife and sharpener instead. Why this pouch cost more is that it is a MOLLE pouch. Since my next article is about a MOLLE vest I think I’ll save the big explanation about what that is for that article, if you don’t know already.

In the picture above you can see that one pouch holds my small med kit and some awesome folding scissors I found on eBay. They are actually post World War II antiques made in West Germany and I managed to score them for $6 including shipping. At $6 they are a steal and I actually use them all the time, but beware, some eBayers are asking $20 or more for them and no, they are not worth that. Notice I added a $2 water proof box I found in the camping isle at Fred Meyer to keep it all dry which fits nicely in the pouch with a pair of med gloves. If I need to stitch up some stranger I’m not risking bad blood.

In the other pouch I have a few things, including a flashlight branded by Columbia. I found the thing on eBay with a bid of 99 cents. Shipping was $4.99 so $6 for the whole thing, what the hell I think, I’ll get it and review it for people, as I cannot find a damn thing about it on the internet. It’s not a bad little light really. I know the flashlight gurus on the net would rip it apart, but most people can’t afford $90 flashlights let alone have them sit in an emergency kit doing nothing. It has 9 leds and runs on 3 aaa batteries. It is slightly brighter than my Fenix E1 at the hotspot, but it casts the light really wide. There is no adjustment to the beam, and unfortunately the base is not flat enough for it to stand up easily. But, I am betting that the batteries last a while, and it would make a good lamp to read by in the tent or get you to the outhouse. $6? Eh, I can do that, but do not pay more than that for it. Some people are trying to get $15 for them, and if you are going to spend that much then there are definitely better flashlights out there.

The other thing you see is the CRKT Guppie. CRKT stands for Columbia River Knife & Tool and Guppie stands for “do not buy this!” When I first got it I admit that I was all giggly over it, but that lasted about 5 minutes. There are several problems with it, from the ridiculously weak magnet to hold a bit in the hex driver, the bit holder that is painfully difficult to get bits out of, the pointless flashlight built into the bit holder, and so on. Now to be fair I will admit that I abhor multitools. I can seldom think of a time I have used one that I didn’t cuss and plead with the Gods to let me use real tools, so maybe I am a bit biased. Except for one crucial point, the knife. This is a folding knife with absolutely no lock on the blade. If there is a tension lock I cannot feel it, and that is down right criminal. If you have used knives much you know that no matter how professional you are, shit happens. You sneeze, someone bumps you, some random hand jerk, just… shit happens. Now when that shit happens while working with a folding knife without a blade lock, what does that knife want to do? Fold up. Where are your fingers? Between the blade and where it wants to go. And in the end hopefully one of your fingers are not on the ground! Maybe I just found one that slipped through inspection, but I’d avoid this thing if I were you.

The thing about multitools is that there are always things to tighten, cut, screw, adjust, and so on in the rest of your gear and so on. So, If anyone has the perfect, light weight, and truly z-pocalypse useful, please feel free to let me know about it, or point to a review you know of.

OK, down in the MOLLE clip pouch I have a CRKT “Yea-go” folding knife. According to the CRKT website Yea-Go is a Navajo phrase meaning “all your might”. This is an “assisted open” knife, so you might want to know the laws in your state about that. Where I live, Oregon, for a long time knives with springs or other assists, like switch blades, were totally illegal. When this changed I have no clue. Anyway, the Yea-go is not a true switch blade by any means.

The assist took me a few tries to get used to before I could get a convincingly smooth opening motion. There is a small thumb pad on the blade that you press down and forward. If you press too straight down or too forward the blade won’t open, which is actually nice as it prevents most “accidental” openings. I like the minimal handle, and one unique feature is the belt clip which you can easily switch sides for left-handers. While I prefer a straight edge, it is good to have one knife with some serration on it. Straight edges are just so much easier to keep sharp and trouble free. I do have to admit that I have not done a serious bush test with this knife, but know that it is more of a kitchen knife than a heavy chopper. It will kill a zombie if you need it to though. In closing, this knife has been discontinued by CRKT, which has it on their site for $80 but because of the “discontinued” status I got mine for $49 at a local store. Keep your eye out on eBay and such as it is a candidate to hit the $20 mark eventually. And, because of this knife I can recommend CRKT as a good “general knife”. I never recommend buying “direct from manufacturer” as someone out there has a great deal, but: http://www.crkt.com/

Water to Run On

If you had to choose between the bug-out belt and the pack, then the pack is the best option because it has the water you need. Some of you might have realized already that if you can do both then you would have one serious rig. It would not be too hard to sew some extra straps that connect the pack to the belt and make it all one unit. Mostly it is about what you can afford, and how much of an edge you want to give you and your crew.

One of the nice things about this pack setup is that the pouches on the front help balance the load more on your hips, allowing you to go farther with less pain in the back later. The belt does this nicely as well, but has one little drawback that I didn’t mention. If you need to go to the bathroom, those pouches like to pull your belt out and fall on the ground, which could lead to a stinky situation.

One major selling point for building your bug-out around a hydro pack is that they come in several sizes. You can set up a smaller 1.5 liter for your 10-year-old daughter, a 2 liter for your 15 year-old son and a 3 liter for yourself. Everyone can carry something and not tire themselves out too much, which will help you all stay un-dead. So, happy zombie hunting!

On a budget? Buy it a piece at a time in this order:

Month 1: hydropack

Month 2: med kit

Month 3: a good knife

Month 4: a small pouch & a $2 survival blanket

Month 5: anything else you want to add…

Staying Un-Dead #1: Bug-Out Belt

Posted on November 27, 2012 by Dave Sunhammer

Ok, so here is the situation. The apocalypse has come, and for us that means zombies are running around trying to eat aunt Ruth and uncle Ed. Things are dicey and we need to get ourselves out of the hot zone like 20 minutes ago. Now, I know you all are zombie knowledgeable and have a “Go-Bag” all ready to rock while you roll your butt off the menu.

One thing that many people forget though is that there is a more basic level than the go-bag that people want to think very hard about. Sure, your go-bag has all your important supplies like medications and flashlights, and semi important supplies like a change of underwear and your favorite photos of aunt Ruth. What is doesn’t have is the portability and the stick-to-you-ness that you want in a do-or-die situation like the z-pocalypse. And that is what my 3 main articles are about in this series.

We are going to look at gear that basically if you don’t have, or if you lose, well, you might as well wrap yourself in a tortilla and wiggle over to the nearest walker, ‘cause you are done !! Do not get me wrong, you want and need a go-bag. But the chances are real good that you will have to set it down to do something and magically a herd of deadites will appear and you will have to abandon the bag (hopefully just for a short time). Then what??

The Bug-Out Belt

The ultimate in ‘last ditch survival’ is putting totally critical items in belt pouches and keeping it all strapped around your waist. Your 12 year old daughter can wear one, and your 300lb uncle Ed can wear one. Aunt Ruth could have worn one but, well, she fed some zombies instead. Belts are super fast to put on if you have to get out in a big hurry. They are as light as can be, and you don’t have to wear out your tired arms carrying them.

The one thing a belt cannot deal with is water. I am going to chew on this like I have the rage virus – A belt sucks for dealing with water. The best you can do is pack a collapsible cup and some water purification tablets. The tablets are great except they are meant to purify larger quantities than a cup.

One other thing I will repeat, this gear is never, ever taken off unless you are 150% sure that you are secure. If you are alone this might be difficult, but you might find a good fortified room or such where you can strip down to clean up, etc. But, this gear goes right back on! Not only your life, but your family’s lives depend on this stuff.

To repeat, yes, you want to have some cloths to change into, and maybe something to cook in – and that is in your go-bag. But, let’s be honest, when you need to drop 20 lbs because the zombies are catching up, what is going to be ditched? The clothes. And why not? You will be able scavenge some here and there as the undead are not really big on fashion, or clothes. Trust me, what will disappear from stores will be food and water, but clothes, ha! And don’t forget that where you want to scavenge is NOT Macy’s. Try REI or Dicks Sporting Goods when you need clean pants.

Belt Inventory – Primary Tool

So, what is super critical that you HAVE to have… besides water, of course?

Your primary tool/weapon. What I have shown here is the Hibben IV Machete. I’ll do a full review in another article but here are its basic stats: Cutting edge = 10 ½ inches (26.7cm), Overall length = @17 inches (43cm), and a very important and solid ¼” (0.64cm) thick. In other words this thing is a hefty slab of metal. It is full tang – which means that it is one slab of metal from its pointy bit through the handle to the round knob. This is very important for it to be excellent at its job. (note: I had to measure mine because every website had different dimensions.) If you were to stick it horizontally into a large tree you could use it as a step.

Why I chose this is because of its versatility. You can chop wood with it like a hatchet, clear brush, chop open cans of food when you lose the can opener, kill zombies, pound things, and so on. And almost as important – because it is a machete it is classified as a “tool” and not a weapon. For most people this is not an issue, especially as you won’t be wearing it when you go to the mall. But for many people not in the U.S.A. (and some people that are) the distinction between weapon and tool might be important.

If you are interested now, here are the two least expensive places I know to order this tool. Please note that there are two major types of this machete, ones with cross guards and ones without. I’ll detail this out in the review, but know that the cheapest you will get the cross guard version for is about US-$85 + s/h.

Anyway, BudK has the Hibben IV Machete for US-$39.98. Their minimum s/h is $9.95 so you might want to find something to add to your order, as the s/h gets more reasonable the more you buy, of course. You can find it here = http://budk.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=156977

Wild Bill Wholesale also has the Hibben IV for a reasonable price of US-$44.40. While this is a little more expensive than BudK – I bought mine here. The reason is that you can get pistol crossbow bolts at Wild Bill for $3.99 a pack and BudK sells them for $19.99 a pack. Also, replacement strings are only $2.99 each. So it is real easy to offset the higher price for the machete. Wild Bill’s s/h charges are about the same as BudK. Check out the Hibben IV here (the pic is incorrect – that was a special run) = http://www.wildbillwholesale.com/hibben4machete.html

You might opt for something else as your primary tool. I highly recommend though that you either stick with a hatchet or machete. Your favorite brand of course. This is primarily because you want something that does as many different things as it can. Knives are a really tricky and long discussion, which we will have soon. Trust me though, you want 3 or 4 knives if you can = each for different things.

First Aid

Fixing yourself up after a rough ride is almost as critical as water. Did I mention that if you lay totally still you might make it 6 or 7 days without water. But, running out of the city screaming is going to dry you out like a raisin in 2 or 3 days according to medical people. You are pretty sure to have important body parts shutting down in 3 to 5 days. And this doesn’t take into account hot weather and such. Water – better live with it, ‘cause you can’t without it.

The other things you need to take care of you and yours? Well, I am going to talk to someone at the Red Cross and get a good list of things that you really need. The most important thing is a way to deal with bad cuts and broken bones. Only waste space for little Band-Aids if you or someone in your crew is prone to getting infections. My brother got them very easily but I never have.

An alternative to bandaids and one I swear by is skin glue. Warning, this stuff has antiseptic in it which means it will sting. But that is a good thing, ya wuss! Likewise, large cuts like T-Dog’s arm… probably not a good application. But, a bottle of this in the kit is worth the $6.

For now, get yourself a basic kit. Remember to split it up between packs if you are with a group. And once I get the low-down from the Red Cross I will pass it on.

Other Items

What else? How about one of those shiny emergency blankets you can get for $2 and a pocket knife or small multi-tool? And you will want to add some sort of real knife. I have just discovered that an outfit called Mora makes inexpensive knives that many big name survival people carry. I’ll let you know more about these in my knife article.

Wrap-up and Go!

Now that you see the basic idea, and some items that you should have on your belt you can make adjustments and maybe add something else I didn’t mention. One example would be a whistle or other emergency signal device. Yeah, we are having fun writing about the z-pocalypse, and I am sure a whistle would be bad news then, but in an earthquake or hurricane situation you might want one.

In closing, the more prepared you are for an emergency the less likely you are to end up a manwich. Even if you get caught away from your gear, subconsciously you will be way better off because you know what you need, you know at least one place to get it, and you have at least a half-assed plan in mind. This alone will boost your chances of surviving. And that is the name of the game.

I am Daryl Dixon’s Crossbow

Posted on June 4, 2012 by Bill Kasper

There are many like me, but I am his.

I am Daryl Dixon’s Horton Scout HD 125 compound crossbow. That may not mean much to you, but just my name tells you a lot about Daryl and a lot about our relationship.

If I was single (i.e not with Daryl), I’d enter the following information on a person/crossbow dating matchmaking site so you could tell if we’d be a good match:

My measurements:

Model Number: CB721 (but everyone calls me “Scout”)
Weatherproof synthetic stock and barrel, MicroFlight™ arrow groove (tight)
Talon™ CUSTOM field-grade trigger with ambidextrous safety (up for anything)
ToughBoy™ wide-body limbs with CamoTuff™ Limb Shield (toned and buff)
Precision aluminum riser, Machined aluminum alloy wheels (I drive fast)
ICAD cable system, Dial-A-Range® trajectory compensator, steel stirrup (kinky)
Draw Weight: 125 lbs, Total weight: 5.5 lbs (zero percent body fat, built for love)
Length: 29 in, Width: 25 in (36, 24, 36)
Power Stroke: 10 1/2 in, Arrow Length: 17 or 20 in (let your imagination run!)
Velocity: 250 fps, Energy: 250 ft lbs (I go all the way, every time)

Extras I bring to the relationship:

25-mm Red Dot Sight, Hunter® Elite Lite 3-arrow quiver (look into my eye)
3 practice arrows, 3 practice points (practice makes perfect)

So that’s me. Well, the boring details anyway. There’s a lot about me that’s subtle, and those little subtleties explains why Daryl takes me everywhere, and we are never apart for more than a moment.

One of the things you may not know about me is that I’m a “youth” model. See, Daryl and I met when he was younger. We fit together better than any other pair-up, and we know each other’s moves so well by now that we’re almost a part of each other. Daryl knows to expect one of my bolts (what he calls my “arrows”, and that always makes me giggle because we both know he knows they’re bolts, but he always says “arrows” just to get a rise out of me) is going to drop about 5 inches for every 10 yards of distance to the target.

There are two styles of crossbow, the “recurve” and the “compound”. The recurve is the simplest type, with just a string stretched between the two ends of the bow. Recurves are easier to maintain in the field, but more difficult to cock since you are fighting the full weight of the string’s pull.

Cheap, slutty recurve that Daryl DIDN’T choose!

Compounds, like moi, employ a pulley system where the string is leveraged using a block-and-tackle cable arrangement to minimize the cocking effort and give maximum speed to the arrow with the least amount of bow energy.

About My “Arrows” (tee hee)

Daryl used to have several of my original Horton Carbon Strike bolts with practice tips:

He even had some broadhead hunting tips which can replace the practice tips, but he never really used them once the Walker plague hit. I think I know why, too.

Broadhead Tips (razor sharp!)

Practice Tips (tough as nails!)

See, broadhead tips are meant to penetrate the flesh of living game (like deer and hogs), and create a significant blood channel so the game animal will bleed out quickly if it doesn’t drop immediately. Well, walkers don’t bleed out, and they don’t even respond to flesh hits. And since my practice tips are considerably stronger and lower maintenance than the razor-blade-edged broadheads, Daryl just uses those.

He’s even made some new bolts from some ash tree limbs he whittled down and chicken feathers he made into “fletchings” at the back of the arrow (tee hee). I don’t know if those will last more than 1 shot, but 1 shot to the head is all it takes, so we’ll see…

Nock Nock, Who’s There?

Green Standard Half-Moon Nock

For improved accuracy, Daryl uses “half moon nocks”. These are the string-contact part of the bolt, and attached to the rear end of each bolt. The half-moon style allows the string to engage the arrow at a very consistent angle, making for very accurate shots. Before everything went to hell, these were made in green, orange, and even illuminated models

I’m All a’Quiver

Since more than one bolt can often be required in a hunting or fighting situation, I have a quick-detach quiver which holds 3 bolts. This is mounted perpendicular to my stock so the arrows are parallel to my limbs.

Daryl giving me a piggy-back ride – see my quiver with 2 arrows?

I Only Have Eyes For You

Sighting a target is done using my illuminated 25mm diameter red dot sight. If you’ve never used a red dot sight, you’re in for a treat. First, you keep both eyes open. Second, select the intensity of the red dot illumination (from 1 to 10) that makes the most sense for your current lighting conditions (evening or night, 1, dusk maybe 3 or 4, daylight, 10). Finally, place the dot where you want the bolt to strike, and squeeze me gently until that moment of sweet release…

This pic is a little fuzzy and the dot is a little arc because Daryl was moving when he shot it, but you get the idea. See the quiver, 2 arrows, cocked string, and limbs?

Our relationship

Daryl and I have known each other since long before the zombie apocalypse. See, that’s why he chose me. Like I said earlier, I’m a “youth” model, with all the power and smarts of a full-size crossbow, but less weight and size. Daryl knew that when you’re hunting for meat to save your life, you feel every ounce you’re carrying out in the field, and every inch of something sticking out makes you that much more likely to snag a branch or otherwise get caught on something.

So I’m everything he wanted, and I give him everything he needs. Sure, there was that one incident in front of Hershel’s barn where he was flirting with that shotgun, but it meant nothing to him. It was a one-time thing, and I know it won’t happen again.

Scout and Daryl, walkers, him, and me, S H O O T I N G

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Firearms 101 – Handguns

Posted on February 1, 2012 by Ride All Year

All opinions expressed here are entirely my own, as are any errors. There is no expressed or implied liability for the information presented here, which is strictly for entertainment purposes, and only as it pertains to a possible Zombie Apocalypse.

Firearms generally fall into three main categories: handguns, rifles, and shotguns; each with their own advantages. Pay attention, class; today we will discuss handgun basics.

Rule #1 – First and foremost: Always treat every handgun as if it is loaded.

Rule #2: Never point a handgun at anyone or anything that you don’t wish to completely destroy.

Rule #3: Keep your finger along the side the handgun, away from the trigger, until ready to fire.

A handgun is any small firearm, available in a variety of calibers, which can be fired comfortably with one hand. With the shortest barrel of all firearms, handguns are good close-range weapons and easily kept with you during normal post-ZA daily activities, but more difficult to aim properly. Frequent practice is a must to develop and maintain the skills necessary for the head shots required to stop walkers at any range over 10 or 12 feet. If you choose to use a handgun in the aftermath of a ZA, your choice should be governed by your comfort level handling guns, what’s available when the ZA occurs, and whether its intended use is for self-defense only or active walker-hunting.

The two major types of handguns are revolvers and semi-automatic pistols; these general terms refer to how each gun moves a new bullet into position to be fired.

A revolver, like Rick’s Colt Python, is so named because the cylinder (which holds the bullets) “revolves” within the gun’s frame to bring a fresh bullet into firing position. It has the advantage of being an older, more rugged, and simpler design with fewer moving parts than a semi-auto. Also, it can withstand being hidden or stored for extended periods with no discernable decrease in functionality, meaning it’ll still work when you need it to. Its biggest disadvantage is the limited number of shots; it will need to be reloaded after only a few (usually 6.) To reload, swing the cylinder out of the gun’s frame, manually eject the fired shells, and insert a new bullet into each chamber – the openings in the cylinder that holds the bullets. (This process can be accelerated with a speed loader.) After the new shells are in, firmly press the cylinder back into the gun’s frame. I strongly advise against using a sideways wrist flip to “snap” the cylinder back into place, despite what you see on TV or in movies, as this can cause greater wear on the moving parts of the gun.

Most modern revolvers are double-action (DA), meaning each pull of the trigger will simultaneously cause the cylinder to rotate while moving the hammer back into the cocked position, which then snaps forward and causes the weapon to fire. Classic Western cowboy guns are single-action (SA) revolvers, and cannot be fired without first manually cocking the hammer. Double-action revolvers may be cocked and fired in single-action. Because the action of the SA gun is doing less work, the amount of pressure required to pull the trigger is less than for a DA. I recommend cocking the hammer and firing a revolver in single-action if the walker is at a greater distance (requiring extra care sighting your weapon), or if you have to make every shot count due to limited ammunition.

The other major handgun type is the semi-automatic pistol, like Shane’s Glock 17. This gun “semi-automatically” brings a new bullet into position to be fired while cocking the hammer during the chain of events that occur after each squeeze of the trigger.

In every firearm, the bullet is propelled forward by the rapidly expanding gases resulting from the controlled explosion of gunpowder caused by the firing pin striking the primer in the center of the back of the shell, which in turn was caused by squeezing the trigger … but I digress. In a semi-auto, these rapidly expanding gases also cause the top of the gun, or slide, to move backward. As the gas pressure inside the pistol dissipates, an internal spring then forces the slide forward, pushing an unfired bullet into place. The two important things that occur during this cycle are the opening created in the side of the gun as the slide moves rearward through which the empty shell is ejected (keep this in mind when choosing a handgun, as some find their gun suddenly showering them with hot brass casings to be a distraction) and the hammer is cocked for the next shot.

Ammunition for a semi-auto is held in a removable magazine, sometimes incorrectly called a clip, which fits into the gun’s grip. The magazine has a strong spring to keep the bullets at an opening in the top, ready to be moved into the gun by the slide’s movement.

Reloading the semi-auto is fast and easy. After the last bullet has been fired, the slide will stay open in the eject position; remove the empty magazine, insert a full one in its place, and release the slide. As before, the slide’s forward movement puts a fresh bullet in the gun, and you’re ready to put down more walkers. When surrounded by walkers, having extra ammunition can mean the difference between becoming a walker yourself and living to kill more walkers tomorrow. Um, you DID remember to pre-load several magazines before heading out to slay walkers, didn’t you?

As with revolvers, the designation SA or DA will indicate whether or not the hammer has to be manually cocked before the first shot can be fired. Unlike a revolver, since a semi-auto cocks the hammer after each shot, all other shots are single-action. While all firearms should be regularly cleaned and oiled, semi-autos require more frequent care than revolvers to stay at their operational peak.

So, class, which type of handgun would be best for a post-ZA world? Well, obviously, one that you can hold. Being able to grip your weapon comfortably is paramount; if it’s too big for your hand, you may not be able to hang onto it when it goes “bang”. Handguns come in all sizes, so try several to find the one that best fits your hand.

Now it’s time to consider ammunition size, or caliber. A number of handgun calibers are available, but in the event of a ZA I feel more consideration should be given to the larger ones for their greater destructive power; simply put, smaller shells like the .22, .25, and .32 just won’t cause enough damage to stop a walker with one shot.

My revolver choice would be a .357 Magnum. One big reason is its ability to also use the lower-power .38 Special shells, effectively doubling the pool of available ammunition. (Although the .38 and .357 are nearly identical in diameter, the .357’s longer shell will not work in a .38 gun.) .357s are popular with police departments, civilian shooters, and collectors, so ammunition should be easy to find. Exotic revolvers like the .454 Casull may have more stopping power in a single shot, but if the ammunition is so rare it can’t be scavenged from Wal-Mart or a local mom-and-pop gun store, the gun will quickly become a useless paperweight.

In semi-auto, I’d have to go with .45 caliber. The .45 ACP and 9mm are among the most popular and readily-available, but in a post-ZA reality the faster 9mm bullet can over-penetrate the target, meaning it may continue on into objects (or people) beyond the walker. The .45 doesn’t have this issue, and packs quite a wallop – the sheer force of impact can knock a walker down. The iconic Colt .45 (also known as the M1911 and later M1911A1) is one of the most durable, recognizable, and copied guns in the world, and still hugely popular in the civilian market – they’re literally everywhere! However, if you’re looking for a newer design or a higher-capacity magazine than the Colt’s seven bullets, try a Glock 21, Sig Sauer P220, or Heckler & Koch USP (if available). Any of these would be an excellent choice.

No discussion of handguns would be complete without some attention to the subjects of recoil, proper grip, aim, and how to carry your weapon. If you remember Newton’s Third Law from Physics class, you’ll understand recoil, or the “equal and opposite reaction” created by the gunpowder propelling the bullet forward. How much recoil a shooter feels is determined by a combination of: the size/power of the shell; overall weight of the gun; and to some extent, barrel length. Larger calibers have more power, and therefore potentially more recoil to be felt by the shooter, which is where size and weight of the gun itself comes into the equation. There is more “felt recoil” from a short-barreled (2.5 inch) revolver with a lightweight frame than a heavier police-style weapon of the same caliber with its more robust frame and 6 inch barrel. And while many semi-autos are available in small, light, “compact” versions, the “full-size” pistol will transmit less recoil to the shooter and hold more ammunition. Recoil also affects the shooter’s ability to reacquire their target quickly for subsequent shots, if needed. Also keep in mind that longer barrels are more accurate.

Now we come to holding the gun. While it may look cool, the “gangster” grip is a bad idea. Using a two-handed grip on your weapon whenever possible allows you greater control over your weapon and your aim. Holding the gun in your strong hand, press it slightly forward into your weak hand (which should cup around not under the strong hand), making sure that the hammer (revolver) or slide (semi-auto) will not come in contact with your hand. This supports the gun through the entire firing cycle, and the “pushing forward” will help reduce felt recoil. Pointing the gun at your target, tip your head down slightly and look at your target, with the rear and front sights of the gun visible – but possibly somewhat blurry – as you line up both sights with your target. This is your sight picture. Begin to squeeze the trigger gently so as not to pull the gun to one side or the other (and off-target.) After the gun discharges, re-acquire your sight picture and fire again, if needed, to dispatch that pesky walker. And if I catch any of you holding your gun one-handed and sideways, I’m gonna send T-Dog over to bitch-slap you!

Quick access to your weapon In the event of a ZA is more important than concealing it. Holsters available for your choice of sidearm can include inside-the-waistband, police-style and Old West gun belt hip holsters, military special-warfare thigh holsters, and shoulder holsters. Personal preference and comfort are huge considerations when choosing one, as well as how easily the gun can be drawn when needed and weapon retention – so it doesn’t fall out of the holster!

Before we dismiss for the day, I’d like to make a point about firearms as portrayed in TWD; I was glad to see the target practice at Hershel’s farm, although I would’ve liked it to have been sooner. To emphasize an earlier point; like any skill you develop, shooting requires frequent practice or the skill deteriorates. Don’t skimp on training and re-training. Oh, and I really wish Shane would have taught Andrea how to very slightly “lead” the moving target with her weapon – but that’s another class all by itself!

Ride, Daryl, Ride

Posted on January 4, 2012 by Ride All Year

As we pick apart all things TWD, let us not forget important questions such as what kind of bike does Daryl ride and is that the best choice?

All we know is that Daryl is riding his brother Merle’s bike. It has a lightning-bolt SS insignia on the tank. The saddlebags contain, among other things, all sorts of legal and illegal drugs including prescription antibiotics and painkillers. (I, for one, find these completely believable given Merle’s alluded-to background.)

But let’s back up a bit; I’d like to point out that someone riding a motorcycle would be a valuable asset to a group of apocalypse survivors, be it the zombies, the Russians, or even the Republicans. Motorcycles are good for scouting ahead, checking on stragglers, seeing if the group is being followed, and delivering messages between vehicles in a convoy. They also use less fuel – always a good thing when resources are limited – and can get to places four-wheeled vehicles cannot.

To be fair, motorcycles have limitations. They do not carry a spare tire. They must be balanced like a bicycle. They offer the rider no protection from the elements, zombies, or Republicans. They generally require all four extremities to operate.

Now, back to Merle’s/Daryl’s bike …

I could tell right off this bike isn’t a Harley as it lacked the distinctive V-twin motor and both exhaust pipes exit the front of the engine, not a Harley design. Many non-riding viewers might expect Merle to ride American iron given his personality, but he’s riding a British bike. In my nearly six minutes of research, I found that consensus on the Internet seems to be this bike is most likely a Triumph Bonneville 650 originally built anywhere from the mid-60s to 1971. The Bonneville was cherished and heavily modified by hardcore riders nearly as often as the more ubiquitous Harley product; many are still being ridden today.

Although a cool and truly badass ride, a vintage Bonneville isn’t the best choice for post-apocalyptic transportation. Oh, it can do all the things I mentioned above fairly well including go off-road (but only in extreme circumstances); however, the bike has three large strikes against it: age, noise level, and range of travel.

Old-school choppers may be easier for a shade-tree mechanic to work on, but finding parts is more difficult than for newer or more commercially popular bikes. Replacement parts for a newer-model bike would be easier to, ah, “acquire”.

In a world where noise attracts walkers, the far-reaching powerful throb of an un-muffled motorcycle engine is sure to announce one’s presence to every walker for miles around. Daryl prefers a crossbow to a rifle because of noise concerns, so why would he ride this bike?

Another of the bike’s limitations is the small gas tank – referred to as a “peanut” tank – that generally only carries 2-3.5 gallons of fuel. When removing all the non-essential parts of a bike – “chopping” – a small gas tank is used to reduce overall weight to increase its speed. However, in any post-apocalyptic scenario, a larger tank that allows more miles between fuel stops would be preferred, at least by me.

A much better motorcycle for Daryl would be one classified as a dual-sport, meaning it can be ridden on-or off-road. Like any hybrid, a dual-sport isn’t the best in either category, but rather has characteristics of both. It isn’t as comfortable and won’t carry as many supplies as a big road hog like the Harley-Davidson Electra-Glide or Honda Gold Wing. Also, it won’t be as rugged as bikes designed for off-road use only, such as Suzuki‘s RMX450Z or Kawasaki’s KX450F. Dual-sport bikes are heavier and will not have as much suspension travel for overcoming obstacles.

While not as quiet as street-only bikes, they are designed to not shatter the quiet of wooded riding areas. Additionally, their fuel tanks can hold up to twice as much fuel as a peanut tank. As most major motorcycle manufacturers still have dual-sports in their offerings, parts for these would be easier to scavenge.

So, with all these marks against it, why does Daryl stick with Merle’s bike and not find something more appropriate? Simply put, it was Merle’s. Daryl rides this bike in honor of and in tribute to his big brother; it’s the one tangible thing Daryl has to remind him of Merle. To remind him of all that they were to each other, good or bad.

I can easily imagine this bike was Merle’s one true love, all his time, energy, and spare cash put into making it his perfect “sled” – customized motorcycle. Bikers express their personalities through their rides and these creations are seen as personal declarations, much like heraldry for knights of old. Bikers don’t want “cookie-cutter” sleds that look like all the others on the road. Bikers want their bike to be immediately recognized as theirs. There’s no doubt this particular bike belonged to Merle Dixon.

The biker in me understands this completely and will shout with a raised fist in support of Daryl as he thunders by.

Talking Walking Dead

Category Archives: Vehicles & Weapons